With the surge in interest in landscape photography in recent years, all us landscape photographers are in danger of following each other around the same iconic locations in the world, so the opportunity to find a location that is truly original is getting ever harder. With this in mind I spend most of my time doing my own thing photographing within 20 miles of my home, but a couple of recent trips to Norway have wetted my appetite for ever more wild and remote places.
Almost everyone has tried places like Glencoe and the Isle of Skye and locations such as Iceland and Norway are seeing a huge increase in popularity, so finding a place that is not familiar is getting ever harder. I’d been on a day trip to the island of St. Kilda (40 miles due west of the Outer Hebrides) in 2010 and was blown away with the feel of the place, but it was a recent television program with Steve Backshall marooned for a night on the island of Boreray with a gorgeous sunset in the background that got my mind racing! This was just the place I was looking for, highly atmospheric and little visited. I did some research about the island and the way of life and became hooked. My research also revealed that it was possible for limited numbers of people to camp on the island, so I started making plans.
We duly booked a cottage on Harris as a base and I treated myself to a new tent and sleeping bag amongst many other bits and pieces. I’m used to camping within walking distance of civilisation, so I was very aware that anything I didn’t take, I would have to manage without. The other problem with St. Kilda is that you need to take a lot of spare food in case you get stranded by bad weather! The weather forecast for North West Scotland the week before we left looked poor and a phone call from Seamus the boatman on the Sunday night confirmed that the trip to St. Kilda was definitely off until Thursday as we had gales and intermittent rain. Fortunately Seamus rang on Wednesday night to say that we were on for Thursday, albeit only for a day trip. I was disappointed that I wasn’t going to get to stay overnight, but it was an awful lot better than nothing.
For the trip out to the islands, imagine a 700hp mini bus travelling at speed over continuous hump back bridges for 2 ¾ hours and you get the picture! Once on the island I was blown away by the feeling of the place and keen to try and capture the look and soul of the place, but the clear blue skies and harsh sunlight were hardly what I had expected! I spent some time capturing the deserted village and the almost unique Soay sheep that have inhabited the islands for 1000’s of years and then decided to try and capture something of the landscape. The light was looking promising over the island of Dun, so I took the long steep hike in that direction. The relatively harsh light dictated the use of a polariser and a 3 stop ND grad to kill the glare and made me yearn to able to stay for when the light cooled in the evening.
My next stop was the “Mistress Stone” where the young men used to prove their manhood by standing on one leg on top of the rock, but this practice was eventually phased out when they started to run out of young men…….It was a very precarious place to be and I was very careful with both myself and my camera gear as neither of us wanted to end up in the sea hundreds of feet below!
Once back at the boat at 4pm we were treated to a trip around the sea stacks where we marvelled at the 10’s of thousands of seabirds; a great challenge for any wildlife photographer!
All in all a great trip, but now the challenge for me is to figure out how to achieve my goal to get myself out there to stay for a few nights on what is proving a logistically very difficult place to get to.